Identify the market, the fastener parts and foreseeable ways of wearing the garment first. Determine which metal surfaces may come into direct and prolonged contact with skin, then check the applicable requirements, test method, surfaces tested, coating condition and whether the report represents the fastener actually ordered. The relevant EU restriction concerns the rate of nickel release from qualifying contact parts, not merely the percentage of nickel in the material. A “nickel-free” claim, “stainless steel” label or general supplier statement alone does not establish compliance of the whole cardigan.
This guide is for brands and quality teams buying knit cardigans with metal buttons, snaps or other fasteners. It focuses on contact parts and evidence for the EU market. Other markets may have different rules; verify them for the specific territory, sale date and intended use before ordering and placing the product on the market. This guide does not replace review of the complete legislation, customer requirements and the individual product, and it does not promise that any fastener cannot cause a skin reaction.
Identify the surfaces and applicable scope
Separate the fastener into its front, back, edges, attachment and other potentially exposed metal parts. Mark them on the design and physical sample. Record whether the cardigan is worn against skin or over a layer, open or fastened, whether size or movement changes contact, and whether foreseeable contact is direct, sustained or repeated. Do not examine only the visible face in a photograph. Nor should one fitting with an underlayer establish that all foreseeable ways of wearing it avoid direct contact.
The European Commission’s restrictions page identifies nickel restrictions under REACH Annex XVII, entry 27. It covers articles intended for direct and prolonged skin contact, with examples including rivet buttons, tighteners, rivets, zippers and metal marks used in garments. A 2003 historical report hosted by the European Commission describes the former directive: relevant parts in direct and prolonged skin contact are restricted when nickel release exceeds 0.5 μg/cm²/week. The report is historical, not the current REACH text; an EU Court judgment also quotes the entry. Check the current text and applicable requirements before ordering and placing the product on the market. The rule is not an automatic uniform finding for every garment metal part or every brief contact. Assess the design and intended use. The entry has separate rules for post assemblies used in piercings; do not apply the cardigan-fastener threshold to piercing jewellery.
When assessing direct and prolonged contact, consider foreseeable contact, its duration and repetition; a single still photograph is not a complete contact assessment. Where conditions are uncertain, record the uncertainty and ask the responsible compliance personnel and laboratory to assess it against current rules. Keep the matter pending rather than guessing an exemption or declaring a pass.
Separate material composition, surface and release
Nickel content describes the material’s composition. Nickel release rate describes the amount released from a surface under particular test conditions. They answer different questions and use different units; a content percentage cannot be converted directly into a release rate. Material descriptions, formulation declarations or screening can help identify fasteners for further investigation, but only evidence matching the applicable requirements can support a decision about the specific part. A test result does not prove that every nickel-sensitive person will avoid a reaction. The UK Health Security Agency’s nickel information explains that skin contact with nickel or its compounds can cause allergic contact dermatitis.
The historical report also describes the former directive’s provision for relevant articles with a non-nickel coating: the coating must be sufficient to keep the release rate from the relevant contact parts at or below that limit for at least 2 years of normal use, subject to the conditions of the provision. Surface color, coating name or the appearance of a new item cannot establish this alone. Tell the laboratory about the coating, construction and intended use; confirm whether applicable methods call for simulated wear and corrosion before evaluating release. Do not present a result for a new item or a care test agreed privately as proof of the regulatory period.
Give the supplier and laboratory the same sample description
The European Commission’s entry 27 standards link leads to methods for demonstrating conformity. Confirm with the laboratory the applicable current editions, whether a reference method for nickel release and a wear-and-corrosion simulation for coated parts are appropriate, how to identify actual contact surfaces and whether the report can support the target-market decision. Do not assume an institution has a particular accreditation or that a report covers every variant. If a specific accredited scope is required, check the laboratory’s actual scope.
| Check | Obtain from the supplier or laboratory | Decision still needed |
|---|---|---|
| Market and contact | Territory, wearing method, contact location and rationale | Which surfaces may be subject to applicable requirements? |
| Fastener identity | Style number, size, base metal, finish, color and supplier | Does the tested part represent the part ordered? |
| Preparation and method | Method and edition, tested surface, coating condition and any necessary pretreatment | Are the method and specimen suited to the question? |
| Result and decision | Release rate, unit, result, laboratory explanation and applicable limit | Who decides under the applicable rule, and what remains open? |
| Lot and change | Report date, sample identifier, lot, retained sample and change record | Which variants, orders and changes require reassessment? |
A report should be traceable to the actual component, not just the cardigan style number. Where the front and back differ in material or coating, identify possible contact surfaces first; do not extend one face’s result to the other automatically. Whether parts are tested separately or combined is for the laboratory to determine with regard to the component and applicable rules. See buying decisions near a test limit, retain the laboratory’s explanation of results and decisions, and do not alter the report yourself.
Use a hypothetical example to define report coverage
Suppose a cardigan can use either of two similar-looking metal snaps. The back of A contacts skin directly; the back of B is separated by fabric, but its edge could contact skin in another foreseeable way of wearing it. A report for one contact surface of A does not automatically establish that B or its edge meets the requirement. Nor does B’s usual wearing arrangement establish that all foreseeable situations are outside the scope. Record each part, contact assessment, material and finish version, then have the responsible people determine the surfaces to test and evidence needed. This example provides no actual test result and does not decide either fastener’s compliance in advance.
If base metal, plating, coating, supplier, manufacturing lot or installation changes, check whether the report still represents the current fastener and contact surfaces. Decide on retesting or additional evidence according to project risk and applicable requirements. Link the approved part number, physical sample, report and order scope; keep unassessed variants pending. An old report, one passing test or a supplier statement is not an automatic guarantee for every later lot.
What to include in an inquiry
Use the WTBF inquiry page to send the cardigan drawing, fastener locations and photographs of both sides, expected wearing method and contact parts, sales markets, material and finish requirements, existing reports and the test scope to confirm. Include sizes, estimated quantity per style per color, receiving location and target warehouse arrival date. Ask the supplier to confirm fasteners, samples, testing arrangements, cost and timing for the project. The target date is not a promised lead time and does not mean WTBF already holds relevant reports or certifications.