First approve the cable shape, position, direction and three-dimensional appearance on a finished garment after the agreed finishing. Then agree how those features will change across sizes and review the required sizes, colours and care states. Do not approve a whole batch from a swatch, a computer image or one base-size sample: a swatch can show a local effect, but cannot on its own establish the pattern's relationship to the neckline, seams, sleeves and whole body. Distinguish the design features that must stay from the areas where change is acceptable so the supplier can propose an option for review.
Turn a visual reference into a workable pattern brief
Provide front, back and sleeve references. Mark where cables and background stitches belong and whether left and right should mirror one another. Use arrows and close-ups of crossings to show the desired crossing direction; “the same cable” does not define the pattern. State whether the centre should contain one complete cable, the space between two cables, or another arrangement. An image does not replace the knitting information the supplier needs: ask the technical team how it should be expressed and whether it can be made.
Record yarn, colour, machine gauge direction, stitch, finished dimensions and finishing; give each swatch and garment revision an identifying number. The pattern is not the only approval: assess it together with the body fit, sleeves and neckline. The WTBF pullover range is a starting point for styles; the actual design and technical conditions are agreed for the project. The machine gauge and yarn count guide helps distinguish gauge, yarn count and the finished effect; no number alone replaces review of a physical sample.
Agree the centre, boundaries and measuring conditions
On the agreed finished sample, choose repeatable landmarks such as the front centre line, centre neckline, shoulder line or top edge of the hem rib, and mark the references and measuring method on the drawing. Then state where each cable panel begins and ends, where its centre and crossings fall, and which left-right relationships need comparison. Specify whether the garment is laid flat, finished and naturally relaxed, or prepared under another agreed condition. Do not compare a stretched width directly with a relaxed one.
| Review item | Suggested record | Decision for both parties |
|---|---|---|
| Front centre | Relationship between pattern centre and garment centre, with neckline and hem references | A complete central cable, a central gap or another effect |
| Left-right direction | Crossing directions, corresponding positions and close-up reference photographs | Mirrored or same direction; which differences are acceptable |
| Pattern boundaries | Relationship of outermost cables to side seams, armholes and neckline | Whether cut-offs or local endings are permitted and which areas take priority |
| Raised appearance | Physical reference under specified lighting, viewing angle and finishing state | Which differences require a new review and who decides |
| Sleeves and back | Whether they have cables, their positions and intended relationship to the front | Whether separate sleeve, back and seam evidence on garments is needed |
This table suggests purchasing records, not universal production tolerances. If decisions depend on measurements, agree endpoints, units, permitted differences, sample preparation and how disputes will be remeasured. Close-up photos help remote communication, but angle and lighting affect relief; send physical samples when needed rather than replacing the approved sample with a rendering.
Choose an explicit rule for each size
As sizes change, body width or length may change the pattern's relationship to the edges. Buyers and suppliers can compare options: keep the central cable complete and adjust the background at the sides; keep a fixed number and arrangement of cables while accepting changes in edge space; or develop size-specific layouts. These options may look different. Feasibility and effects on samples, materials and scheduling must be confirmed for the actual project. Do not assume every size can exactly match the base-size photograph.
For example, suppose the base-size front has one centred cable with background stitches on both sides. A larger size is to retain the same central cable while allowing the side backgrounds to widen. This is a decision example only; it does not prescribe stitch counts, dimensions or a universal grading method. The buyer should also ask to see a smaller size. If limited space cuts off an edge motif, decide whether to preserve the central cable or alter the layout, rather than interpreting “centred” as a rule that never needs adjustment.
Select base and other finished sizes for review according to the order's range and risk of change. Compare front centre, neckline cut-in, hem starting point and side treatment, and look at sleeves and back too. Record sizes checked and the scope not checked; passing one base size does not verify all the others. For measurement and grading records see the sweater sizing and measurement guide.
Separate pattern, garment dimensions and finishing state
If the cable is off-centre, first confirm how the garment is laid flat, the body centre line, sample revision and measuring points. Then compare the pattern itself and its assembly position; do not infer a cause from a single worn photograph. If the cable is centred but the neckline cuts into it unexpectedly, record the cut-in position and the shape both parties accept. If left and right crossings differ, check the approved reference first: some designs require a mirror image, others the same direction, and the name alone does not decide.
If the raised effect looks flatter than the reference, record the yarn, stitch, colour and finishing state and compare under the same light and angle. Discuss possible changes with the supplier and verify the finished result; do not automatically treat a finishing or yarn change as a proven cause or effective fix. A pattern change may affect appearance, dimensions or cost. After discussing the pattern maker's proposal, confirm new sample charges, affected scope and timing.
Review after care and define the laboratory-test boundary
If the order requires an acceptable appearance after care, agree in advance the method suitable for that sample, number of cycles, drying and preparation before review. Record the same locations' pattern appearance, dimensions and seam condition before and after care and compare them with the agreed reference. Check key colours and sizes separately where needed. This is an agreed product-development observation, not automatically a standardized laboratory test or a guarantee for every actual use.
The public scope of ISO 15487:2018 states that it assesses the appearance of finished textile products after one or more domestic washing and drying treatments, including fabric and seam smoothness. The existence of the standard does not set an acceptance limit for this cable's raised appearance. If standardized evidence is needed, agree the applicable current method, specimens, treatment conditions and decision rules with a qualified laboratory; visual garment approval still needs order-specific agreement.
Fix the approval scope and prepare the inquiry
Final records should refer to the same revision of the design, cable details, garment sample, yarn and finishing record. List the size-specific layout rules, viewing conditions, acceptable boundaries and person authorized to approve. Identify colours, sizes and care states supported by evidence and those still awaiting review. When yarn, dimensions, pattern or finishing changes, first decide what must be reviewed again. If bulk goods are disputed against the approved sample, record affected styles, colours, sizes and quantities and agree the next steps; do not approve or reject the whole lot from a single close-up photograph.
Send WTBF an inquiry with front, back and sleeve drawings, close-up cable references and directions, target measurements and size range, yarn and colour direction, care requirements, quantity by style, colour and size, delivery location and desired arrival date. Explain which positions must remain unchanged, which can be adjusted and whether post-care appearance or laboratory evidence is needed. Ask the supplier to confirm sampling scope, revision arrangements and a project quotation.